Finding Magic on a Mountain: The Bizarre Charm of Tapsa Temple

Korea, with its long and rich Buddhist history, is home to countless temples, each with its own charm and story. From ancient wooden structures that date back to the Three Kingdoms period to grand stone pagodas that seem to touch the sky, every temple has something special to offer. Among them, Bulguksa in Gyeongju often comes to mind for its elegance and harmony, a masterpiece from the Unified Silla period.

But if you’re looking for something truly out of the ordinary,  a place that feels almost magical then Tapsa Temple on Maisan Mountain is an unforgettable choice. It’s eccentric, dreamlike, and looks straight out of a fantasy movie.

Tapsa Temple front view.

The temple is located on Maisan Provincial Park in Jinan County and it can be reached by car or by bus from the town of Jinan. I consider all natural parks in Korea to have a special beauty but Maisan is among my favorites. The twin rock peaks, shaped like horse ears, give the mountain its name  “Maisan,” meaning “Horse Ears Mountain.” The area has this raw, almost mystical energy, mixed with peaceful temples and scenic hiking trails.

Your adventure starts at the park's southern entrance, which feels like a mini-festival! You will find a lively strip of Korean restaurants, street food stalls serving up delicious snacks, and cozy coffee shops. It is the perfect spot to fuel up before your walk. It’s usually quite busy on weekends, but when I arrived close to closing time, the crowds had already thinned out. I treated myself to some local snacks, ice cream, and coffee before going further.

Ten won snack.

A nice coffeeshop.

The serene lake of the Maisan Natl. Park.

Continuing my walk, I wandered past a serene little temple called Geumgdangsa, home to a graceful pagoda from the Goryeo Dynasty. From there, the world gets quiet. A peaceful, tree-lined road leads you past a tranquil lake, and with about fifteen minutes of a relaxed, pleasant walk, you’ll find yourself at the gates of Tapsa Temple. The entrance fee is just 2,000 won per adult, and the temple closes at 6 p.m. (last entry around 5:30–5:40 p.m.). There’s a parking lot nearby, but honestly, walking the route is much more rewarding, the scenery is just too beautiful to rush through.

Geumgdangsa's stone pagoda.

The simplest way to describe my emotions when I entered the temple area would be awe. I could not believe my eyes the beauty of the temple itself, its uncanny conical stone pagodas, the rock wall-like mountain on the left, the colored lanterns and lack of people, the entire scenery resembling a sci-fi movie happening on another planet. With hardly another soul around, the experience was utterly transcendent.

Curious about its story after seeing pictures and a statue of the founder, I did some research and  I learned that Tapsa was built by a hermit layman named Yi Gap-yong (1860–1957). He arrived here in 1885, at the age of 25, to meditate and cultivate himself. Over the next thirty years, he built more than 120 pagodas entirely by hand collecting stones during the day and stacking them at night. Even more incredible, he didn’t use any cement or mortar, yet the pagodas have survived more than a century of storms and strong winds. Today, around 80 still stand, with Cheonji-tap and Obang-tap being the tallest and most famous.

Near Cheonji-tap and Obang-tap.

 Yi Gap-yong (1860–1957).

What makes Tapsa even more fascinating is how otherworldly it feels. The temple blends perfectly into the rocky cliffs of Maisan, as if nature and faith worked together to create it. The stones seem to defy gravity, and when the sunlight hits them at certain angles, they almost glow. It is a place where you can slow down, breathe deeply, and just take in the silence.

If you visit in spring, the walk to the temple is lined with cherry blossoms, while in autumn, the fiery leaves make the whole area glow in warm colors. Even in winter, when snow dusts the pagodas, it feels like a scene from a fairy tale. Photographers and solo travelers will love this place, every corner tells a story, every step feels peaceful. Tapsa isn’t just about sightseeing, it is about feeling something rare. It’s a reminder of human dedication, of patience and balance, of what one person can create with a clear mind and a strong spirit.

Cheonji-tap and Obang-tap (in the back of the pavilion).

There’s no other temple like this in Korea. Whether you’re a traveler searching for inspiration, a nature lover chasing new landscapes, or simply someone who enjoys quiet beauty, Tapsa Temple is worth the journey. It’s not just a place you visit; it’s a place that stays with you long after you’ve left.

Photos by Melline Galani.