[Series] 4.Haeinsa's Tripitaka Koreana

On my first trip to Korea in 2014, I had two temples on my bucket list that I wanted to see the most: Haeinsa and Bulguksa.In this article I introduce my number two favorite one.

In the outstanding beauty of Gayasan mountain lies one of the most sacred temples in Korea - Haeinsa, home of the world's most comprehensive and oldest version of the Buddhist canon, carved on more than 80,000 wooden blocks, known as Tripitaka Koreana.Crafted in the 13th century as an offering for divine protection against Mongol invasions, these meticulously preserved blocks are considered a masterpiece of religious devotion and ancient craftsmanship.Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Tripitaka Koreana remains not only a spiritual treasure but also a testament to Korea's cultural and historical resilience.

It's believed that Haeinsa Temple was first established in 802 A.D.by the monks Suneung and Ijeong upon their return from their religious studies in Tang China.Unlike other renowned Buddhist temples on the Korean Peninsula, Haeinsa Temple has been spared from plunder and destruction due to its remote and isolated location.This isolation proved decisive during the Imjin War (1592–1598), when invading Japanese forces targeted the temple's priceless Tripitaka Koreana woodblocks for loot.Yet their plans were thwarted by Seosan-daesa (1520-1604), a revered monk who rallied a Righteous Army of warrior monks to defend the kingdom.

Stone pagoda (www.iclickart.co.kr)

Haeinsa (www.iclickart.co.kr)

One pavilion of Haeinsa (www.iclickart.co.kr)

Haeinsa's main square (www.iclickart.co.kr)

Illjumun Gate (Photo by KS KYUNG on Unsplash)

Tripitaka Koreana at Haeinsa Temple (Bernard Gagnon, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons)

Tripitaka Koreana woodblock (Steve46814, CC BY-SA 3.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0>, via Wikimedia Commons)

Led by his disciple Samyeong-daesa (1544-1610), these monks turned Haeinsa into a stronghold, ambushing Japanese troops with guerrilla strikes in the Hongnyu-dong Valley.Their defiance not only saved the Tripitaka Koreana but also cemented Haeinsa's legacy as a bastion of Korea's spiritual and cultural resistance.Gayasan itself is revered as one of the top eight scenic spots in the country due to its grotesque-looking rocks, clean running streams, and red pine forest, the like of which is rarely seen elsewhere in Korea.Throughout the centuries, Haeinsa Temple has undergone numerous expansions like in 1488, 1622, and 1644. Tragically, most of Haeinsa T temple was destroyed by fire in 1817. In total, Haeinsa Temple has suffered seven disastrous fires with varying degrees of destruction.Fortunately, the fire of 1817 spared the Tripitaka Koreana housed inside the ancient library.

The creation of the Tripitaka Koreana was not merely a feat of woodcarving, but an unprecedented scholarly endeavor that combined rigorous textual criticism, linguistic mastery, and religious devotion.To produce the most accurate Buddhist canon in history, Goryeo scholars undertook a meticulous comparative analysis of existing versions from China's Song Dynasty, Khitan Liao Dynasty, and even fragments from Japan's Nara period.A dedicated editorial bureau was established to cross-reference every sutra, vinaya (monastic codes), and abhidharma (philosophical commentaries) across multiple sources, resolving discrepancies through debate and consultation with monastic authorities.The result was a textual masterpiece of unmatched fidelity—52 million characters across 81,258 blocks, without a single known error.This scholarly rigor elevated the Tripitaka Koreana above all other versions, including China's Kaibao Canon (imperfect due to wartime compilation) and Japan's Nara Tripitaka (incomplete and stylistically inconsistent).

Therefore Haeinsa Temple holds an exceptional place in Korea's cultural heritage being recognized for its historic and scenic significance.Its crowning achievement came in 1995 when UNESCO designated both the temple's Janggyeong Panjeon Depositories and the Tripitaka Koreana woodblocks as a World Heritage Site - a testament to their global cultural importance.The buildings of Janggyeong Panjeon, which date from the 15th century, were constructed to house the woodblocks, which are also revered as exceptional works of art.As the oldest depository of the Tripitaka, they reveal an astonishing mastery of the invention and implementation of the conservation techniques used to preserve these woodblocks.However visitors cannot enter the archive room itself, but the woodblocks are visible through the slatted windows, offering a glimpse of these ancient treasures from the exterior viewing area.

Haeinsa Temple is more than just a historic site—it is a living testament to Korea's spiritual heritage, artistic mastery, and unyielding resilience.From the awe-inspiring Tripitaka Koreana to the serene beauty of its mountain surroundings, the temple offers a profound journey into Korea's past and present.Whether you seek cultural enlightenment, architectural wonder, or a moment of tranquility away from modern life, Haeinsa invites you to walk in the footsteps of monks and scholars who have safeguarded these sacred grounds for over a millennium.A visit here is not just a step into history, but an encounter with the enduring heart of Korean Buddhism.